Dryer Thermostat Continuity 197 to 2

AppliancePartsPros.com  » Appliance Repair Help  » Dryer Repair  » Dryer - Won't Start - Thermostat continuity?

emod		#1 Posted : Friday, November 2, 2012 8:12:41 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/2/2012(UTC) Posts: 4		GE Profile Dryer - DPSB620EC4WW - Control board comes on, can hit the Start Buttom then a 'click' sound and nothing. Tested continuity on all thermostats and good (WE4M300 (high temp), WE4M160 (outlet backup org), and WE4M137 (high temp). I got no continuity on the inlet control thermostat WE4M298 and ordered a new one (the new one also did not have continuity?). No continuity on lower output thermistor (WE4M275) and also no continuity on the new inlet control thermistor. Are these supposed to have no continuity at room temp? Also checked the door switch and the all purpose switch and those were good. HELP? Any thoughts? Control panel problem? Many Thanks.

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rickgburton		#2 Posted : Saturday, November 3, 2012 3:58:39 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Expert Joined: 10/21/2012(UTC) Posts: 263		Both thermistors should read about 100K ohms (100,000 Ohms) at room temperature. Check the broken belt switch by the motor for continuity. rickgburton attached the following image(s):

emod		#3 Posted : Saturday, November 3, 2012 6:20:35 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/2/2012(UTC) Posts: 4		Rick, Appreciate the Ohms guidance, both thermistors register abot 120-130,000 so should be good. I had also checked the belt switch and that is also good - shows continuity. Thoughts? Don't know what else to check. many thanks, E Originally Posted by: rickgburton Both thermistors should read about 100K ohms (100,000 Ohms) at room temperature. Check the broken belt switch by the motor for continuity.

rickgburton		#4 Posted : Saturday, November 3, 2012 6:48:52 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Expert Joined: 10/21/2012(UTC) Posts: 263		Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance at J2 (Motor plug) on the control board at 2A (Gray) and DS (White/Brown) wires. If the resistance is 2.5 ohms, the motor and idler switch are OK. Select "Air Dry" push the "Start" pad and check the voltage at the J2 plug 2A (Gray) and N (Yellow). You should have 120 VAC. If not, replace the board.

emod		#5 Posted : Saturday, November 3, 2012 9:11:13 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/2/2012(UTC) Posts: 4		Thanks Rick - will give that a try. Much appreciated... Originally Posted by: rickgburton Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance at J2 (Motor plug) on the control board at 2A (Gray) and DS (White/Brown) wires. If the resistance is 2.5 ohms, the motor and idler switch are OK. Select "Air Dry" push the "Start" pad and check the voltage at the J2 plug 2A (Gray) and N (Yellow). You should have 120 VAC. If not, replace the board.

emod		#6 Posted : Sunday, November 4, 2012 10:03:54 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/2/2012(UTC) Posts: 4		Air dry and Start voltage test checked out fine. The first one though did not show 2.5 ohms. I had checked continuity on the idler/belt switch and that was ok. I am guessing this means motor is bad? -E Originally Posted by: rickgburton Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance at J2 (Motor plug) on the control board at 2A (Gray) and DS (White/Brown) wires. If the resistance is 2.5 ohms, the motor and idler switch are OK. Select "Air Dry" push the "Start" pad and check the voltage at the J2 plug 2A (Gray) and N (Yellow). You should have 120 VAC. If not, replace the board.

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